It's January 2004 and ...

It's Monday 5th and Nkwali winds up

As the first Monday of the New Year this comes with our best wishes to you for 2004.

Last week Simon took myself, Noodles and Henry (Noodles' boyfriend) for a very interesting game drive. We boated across the river to a waiting car on the other side and set off to explore the area of the park south of Nkwali. We had not been driving for very long when we heard the exciting sounds of vervet monkeys and baboons alarm calling. As we had Piela, the scout, with us we were able to jump out of the vehicle and quickly make our way to the area where all the excitement was coming from. As we walked over the broken ground we gathered large quantities of mud on our shoes, resulting in platforms heels! We headed in the direction of the alarmed animals - by now the impala were snorting as well. Our eyes were peeled for a glimpse of what was causing all the upset, probably a leopard. Unfortunately we never caught up with it, but it definitely got my heart pumping with the excitement of what could have been.

We carried on driving down towards Chichele hill, on reaching the top we got out to stretch our legs and look at the clear view of the escarpment on the far side of the park. There were several stately giraffe and a herd of elephants making their way across the plain below. As we descended the hill Henry commented on the fact that he would really like to see a lion. Always pleased to oblige our guests, about 2 minutes later Piela, renowned for his amazing eyesight, pointed out a lioness in the bushes at the bottom of the hill. We had a great sighting of her as she walked right passed the vehicle. We noticed that she was obviously lactating and have since heard that she has four 2-3 week old cubs. It will be very exciting to see them when she introduces them to the pride, usually around when they are 6 weeks old.

At this time of year the butterflies are abundant and we had a spectacular view of a variety of species including brown veined whites and swordtails feeding on minerals in the damp soil. It was an amazing kaleidoscope of colours, which lifted up like a cloud as we drove passed.

We spent New Year's Day recovering from the slight excesses of the night before - and what better way to do so than with a picnic in the park. A group of us spent several very relaxed hours lying in the shade of a leadwood tree on Wamilombe, watching the river drift by on one side of us and the various plains game on the other.

I planned a BBQ for Saturday night - Big Mistake!! I have since discovered that this is equivalent of an African rain dance!! The chefs did look a little questioning when I announced in the morning that this was my plan. As the sun set the evening looked clear enough, so the fire was lit and the table laid out of the river bank. However, as the moment drew near the stars disappeared as the clouds came in. The wind got up, the rain drops started and we retreated somewhat dampened to the dining room. The chefs resorted to cooking the meal under the shelter at the kitchen, muttering under their breaths something about mad muzungus.

Unfortunately, this was the same day that Daudi had chosen to drive up to Tena and Nsefu, to check on how the camps are doing and to resupply food to the watchmen. We radioed him in the morning to see how he was, following the storm. He reported that everything seemed fine and he hoped to be back at Nkwali soon. However, a tired and muddy Daudi eventually arrived back here last night, having taken 6 hours to drive what is usually a 1.5 hour journey. I will have to be more careful when I plan my BBQs in future.

Nkwali's season is drawing to an end with the last guests leaving on Wednesday. So no doubt this week will be a frenzy of packing and clearing up.

Have a great week
Shanie

It's Monday 12th and back to paradise

First a note from Jo

Kawaza Scholarship Fund

As many of you know, over the years, we have been sponsoring school children. The cost of schooling has increased considerably and now it costs a general worker on Zambia's minimum wage, 3 months of salary for 1 childen to attend secondary school for 1 year (USD 150 without the extras).

The top sponsored students, who leave school with high grades in all their subjects, are then sponsored to attend college. This comes to around USD 750 per term. This term we have 5 children going to college and 25 kids in secondary school. This is now adding up to USD 5000 per term!!! So firstly thank you to those who are already helping with donations.

And to anyone else wanting to support the fund, do send a cheque (payable to Kawaza School Fund) to the following:

Jo Pope, Mfuwe MERCURY COURIERS LUSAKA ZAMBIA Aramex House, 11 Willow Road, Colnbrook, Slough, SL3 0BS, UK

Back to paradise

A happy new year to one and all. I returned to the Valley on Friday from my month off and I have to say the whole area is looking just amazing. Coming from the UK where we are used to green grass it is still surprising to see just how green grass can get. I had a fabulous time in France, England and Canada but it is good to feel the rays of the sun again - although I did manage to get a bit burnt yesterday whilst on a drive in the park. Being typically English I did not put enough sunscreen on and am looking a little "pink" today.

Simon, Shanie and I headed off in the early morning, picking up a couple of friend along the way. Just out of Nkwali at Kalawani Pans we came across a giraffe nursery - one female with 5 young ones of varying ages. Once inside the park we decided to have a birding morning and were not disappointed. We spotted several raptors including a pair of tawny eagles, a steppe buzzard and an african goshawk. Later in the morning we saw impala making a fuss and rushed across to see if there might be a predator around. On arrival we were surprised to see that it was in fact a beautiful martial eagle who had caused the commotion. He was on the ground, busy munching on a monitor lizard.

We decided to stop for our mid morning snack too and munched on bacon sandwiches and cake with the obligatory cup of tea. I had forgotten how good tea tastes out of a metal mug in the middle of the bush. A swift game of cricket followed, using the cooler box lid as a bat, and then on.

The park is looking just amazing and such a contrast to the place I left in early December. We drove through cool shaded groves and across open grassy expanses such as Lupunga spur with the dramatic build up of storm clouds in the distance. There are many flowers in evidence such as the white ink flower and the unusual flowering combretum. This bush has an insignificant flower but the leaves of the bush turn white to attract insects rather than having large petals. The grass is also seeding and a purple haze spreads across the open areas - really magical.

We saw various cuckoos and a lovely dwarf bittern as well as a male paradise flycatcher. This is a stunning bird with his bright colouring and long tail feathers. We also spotted several woolynecked storks. These migratory birds head south for the summer and are now commonly seen in the park, adding to the marabou, saddle billed and openbill storks which are also in abundance.

The morning was very productive on the mammal front. We saw lots of impala babies and big groups of elephant and zebra. We were lucky enough to come across a herd of about 150 buffalo. This is a rare sighting for this time of year as the herds have normally dispersed by now and headed off to the back country. The highlight on the mammal front was, however, a lone female elephant having a mud bath. She was really having a wail of a time sucking up the slimy mud and squirting it all over herself. It mad us quite envious and we decided to head for home and the swimming pool!

The day was rounded off by sundowners on the sandbank in front of camp with Robin and Jo joining our little group. It was difficult to decide where to sit as we had a spectacular sunset and the sky was amazing through 270 degrees. We saw the most stunning colours from yellow through pink to purple and dark grey. What a perfect day - it's good to be home.

Stay well and have a great week Kim

It's Monday 19th and the bicycle expedition

With Nkwali now closed and packed up for another season we are down to a skeleton crew. The staff have been on their annual end of season gamedrive in the park. Loaded up with sundowners and popcorn they enjoyed a lovely drive. It is great for them to get into the park as, like most of us who work behind the scenes, it is easy to be in camp and "forget" that there is a national park across the river.

The end of season theme continued on Saturday evening when the staff party was held at Daudi's (Tena Tena Manger) bar, aptly named Cool Runnings. We headed up for a few drinks to get the ball rolling, intending to stay for 30 minutes and then leave the camp staff to enjoy themselves. This however, took a little more time than expected as we first had a speech from Daudi, then Keyala and then Simon. Following this it took sometime for everyone to find a seat, drinks to be passed around and then Simon was asked to officially open the party which consisted of all present taking a swig from their Mosi and then saying cheers - all very ceremonial.

Mwila, one of our mechanics, took over the microphone and displayed a hereto hidden DJ'ing talent - we arrived at the bar to his voice booming over the microphone "OK Simon, Shanie and Kim are in the house".....The patter was interspersed with traditional music and various members of staff showing off their dance moves - they have such rhythm that Shanie and I were not persuaded to join in being much to ashamed of our English shuffling from one foot to the other. Both of us have done so in the past to the accompaniment of howling laughter and "so you call that dancing"!! Finally about an hour after arriving the party was in full swing and we left the guys to get on with it. I think there would have been a few sore heads the next days.

Yesterday we had 50 mm of rain over night and it has been raining since about 0300 this morning so finally we are getting some good rain for the farmers. However, earlier this week we had a radio call from the watchmen at Nsefu to say that the bore hole was not working and so they were unable to draw drinking water. After the usual questions about checking the engine, wiring etc it was decided that Keyala should take a couple of mechanics and head off. However, this was no easy mission. We understood that the Mwangazi River was too high to cross with the landcruisers and so the intrepid three said that they were prepared to take bicycles, wade across the river, then pack their tools onto the bikes and cycle through the park to get up to Nsefu. We then arranged for an armed scout to accompany them - on his bicycle for protection, and so our brave heroes set off on their adventure.

However, on reaching the river they found it to be low enough to cross by vehicle and so the bikes and scouts where surplus to requirement. Oh well, better safe than sorry - on they pressed to the camp, moist underfoot but they made in without any mishaps. On arrival the watchmen were clearly pleased to see them. The mechanics went through the generator and found all in order and so decided that there must be a problem with the underground wiring. They began digging up the wires and eventually found that one had been cut completely through - hence no power. Keyala then took over and after some "discussion" the truth emerged. The watchmen spend their days fishing and use worms as bait. Worms need to be dug, and sorry for that if wires are in the way. This particular shovel full of dirt and worms had prompted the planning of an epic journey and proved more expensive than if we had flown some fish in from Kariba!! One very embarrassed Philipo.

Talking of flying, Adam, our workshop manager flew back to the Valley yesterday. Arriving mid afternoon like a whirlwind, armed with stories of his travels. We expect to have days of amusing anecdotes to come. He is now wandering around in his new long shorts and wellies looking very much at home again and ready to take over our ongoing building projects as Robin, Jo, Simon and Shanie all head off next weekend. The bar is being pulled down and re-thatched ready for next season but plans are still being discussed and I will update you on the progress as it happens. The only decision made so far is that it will be in the same place and everyone has been attempting to sketch there ideas on the back of an envelope - should be interesting....

We have been having a large visitor in camp in the shape of a bull elephant called Gilbert - he is a magnificient specimen and strolls around as if he owns the place. The other day he ambled past the office and went down the bank into the river just in front of Marcus's house. Obviously in playful mood he started splashing around and throughly enjoying himself - culminating in taking a huge sideways drive into the river - totally submerging himself several times. Simon ran for the camera but he had finished playing by the time the digital appeared.

Stay well and have a great week
Kim

It's Monday 26th and a sleepy Nkwali

This Monday morning has turned out to be somewhat busy - to be honest the place is like a mad house. Robin and Jo left on Friday and then I got up to wave off Simon and Shanie this morning at 0530. Right I thought that is everyone away apart from Adam, the workshop manager, so I will now be able to swan around, late breakfast - lie by the pool in the afternoon. Pretty much a lady of leisure for a few weeks!! But no, since 0700 this morning there has been a non-stop stream of builders, carpenters, tailors etc all appearing at the office needing something. Actually I am exaggerating but it is surprising how much still goes on in the camp when we are closed to guests.

The bar is now no more - this however, shows how beautiful the tree is without being surrounded by thatch. The new design will show it off more than the old bar so watch this space as it develops. After striping everything away it was easier to come up with new ideas and I think it is going to be wonderful. I am not going to describe the plans as they may change as we go along so you will just have to look out for new pictures of the progress.

We are also currently building a new "cage" - our staff dinning room, come bar and TV room as well as 3 new houses for our long standing chef, storeman and Reuben who is a guide, project manager and general Mr Fixit extraordinaire. Hence builders everywhere.

On a more relaxed front we gave Simon and Shanie a send off on Saturday - stag and hen dos for the afternoon. I am not privy to what the "boys" got up to before we all met up for sundowners but the girls had a great time. About 10 of us - basically all of us left in the valley at the moment, packed up what we could for a picnic and headed into the park. The picnic bit was more difficult than you might imagine as it had been 3 weeks since our last food delivery and the truck was only due to arrive the next day. Between us we managed enough food and a surprising amount of wine - obviously everyone is more concerned with stockpiling wine than running out of food... We began very civilly but then started playing cards which was also a drinking game and it was downhill from there.

Many funny stories came out and we finally packed up and headed off to meet the other at about 6pm. It was a fun day and great for all those here, who can not make it to the wedding in the UK, to send their best wishes to the couple.

We have had some spectacular storms of late. The thunder and lightening are really quite incredible and the river is up and down like a yo-yo. Sundowners drifting gentle downstream in the boat is definitely a favourite at this time of year. Last week Simon and Shanie took a spin in the park - a slightly late start due to the fact that none of us had managed to sleep through the loud thunder overhead and beating rain on our houses the night before. However, on arriving in the park it seemed that even the animals were feeling the same. Warthogs could hardly be bothered to move as the gameviewer approached. Looking decidedly shell shocked they finally ambled off into the bush but a lion which they came across was so tired he just continued to sleep right next to the vehicle having no energy to look fierce or even sloop off.

Ah well now I have written to you all it must be time for a siesta - not so busy after all.....

Stay well and have a great week Kim