The First Time in the African Bush

Unforgettable Memories - Anna Flood, June 2006

If you have never been on a safari or are contemplating your first trip to the bush I would urge you not to delay, you are in for the trip of a lifetime. My recent trip to the South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is my first and the impressions, memories and experience will be ingrained in my mind forever. For those of you who are old hands try to remember how magical it felt to see a lion for the first time, watch the sun set over the African bush and hear the grunting of the hippo. There is a spirit and a rhythm in the bush that is unlike anything else I have ever experienced. I can think of no other place on earth that I would happily get out of bed at 5:30 every day and sit in a car for eight hours.

Due to the incredibly dense and lush vegetation and the abundance of water in the park at this time of year we were not blessed with quantity, but the quality of game was quite extraordinary. We were fortunate enough to see a pair of mating lions a few metres away from the car. Having overcome the initial fear of coming face to face with a lion and realised that it was not going to jump into the car to rip our heads off (I am still not sure why they do not), I began to appreciate how beautiful these creatures are. Over the next few days we revisited the sight of these lions and watched their behaviour. When lions are mating they break away from the rest of the pride, remaining together for up to a month. During this time neither will eat and they mate every 25 minutes or so. The act itself only lasts about 30 seconds. The ritual finishes when the female’s body tells her she has conceived and she leaves the male to return to the pride.

The South Luangwa National Park is famous for its leopard. The biggest concern of spotting them at this time of year is the lush trees and tall grass, so the leopards can be difficult to find. With the skill of some excellent spotting we were lucky enough to see leopard on two occasions. They are one of the most beautiful animals I have ever seen. Sitting under the stars of the African sky and watching this incredible predator slink her way around the grasslands was mesmerising. The movement of her body is so fluid and graceful and the balance of the long tail quite incredible.

When you are staying at such remote camps, magical moments are not necessarily saved for when you are on a drive, as many take place before your eyes. Sitting on the ‘stoep’ of our hut at Nsefu camp we were lucky enough to see three families of elephant cross the wide snaking Luangwa river right in front of us. Watching how they move, the hierarchy and how the babies are nurtured across, was a real privilege. There are countless other bush events I could mention, but the list would be endless. As one member of our group noted, the bush is like cricket. Nothing can happen for several hours and then when you are least expecting it, the excitement arrives, often catching you unprepared, but magnificent all the same.

It has not been just the animals that I have found magical but also the landscape. I had no idea that it was going to be so lush and green. The Luangwa river is the lifeblood of this park; every camp we visited has been nestling on the riverbanks offering views of hippos and crocodiles from a safe distance. Some of my favourite moments have been just sitting and looking at the stars. To be able to hear the calling of the huge variety of birds and the flowing of the river is magical.

The longer you sit or stand still in the bush, the more you notice around you. For me this trip has not just been about seeing the big five – as wonderful as they have been – but it has been about a whole cacophony of events, sounds and smells that have made this experience one that I shall cherish for the rest of my life. The sound of a lion crunching through bones, the call of a honey guide urging you to follow him and the trumpet of the elephant are just a few sounds that contribute to this memory.  Out of the car you see a whole new side to this incredibly complex ecosystem that you have stepped into.

Tracks, droppings, nests and plant-life take on a whole new perspective; I can highly recommend “bush camping” if you have the chance. You leave the vehicle behind, stretch your legs and you certainly not regret it.

My only worry now is how my next trip will live up to this one; the standard has been set.

Anna Flood
8th June 2006.