Tena Tena - South Luangwa

"We both feel that you have hit just the right note at Tena Tena - comfortable and relaxing without unnecessary flummery." Liz Atkins, South Africa, 2005

Is Tena Tena really one of the best safari camps in Africa?…

I had seen the quote on many websites and it caught my attention

“Tena Tena Camp is altogether beyond superlatives, and must be one of the best safari camps in the whole of Africa.”  The Times, London.

We decided we had to try a camp that had such an accolade. And it turned out that Tena Tena indeed is worthy of such praise. Our transfer from Nkwali was a very productive morning gamedrive up the west bank of the Luangwa, through the park to the “Tena Tena crossing point” There seemed to be many hippos around but we were assured that they were not a danger and so we were poled across the river by the chef - Chiseka (means “laughter” and his mother named him aptly). The Tena Tena guide, Bertrame, was waiting for us and after introductions we drove on, still in the park, to the camp only 20 minutes away. By the time we arrived we knew we would have a great time with “Berty” guiding us. Nothing missed his attention, he loved showing us the birds as well as the beasties!

The camp is set in a grove of trees and bushes so you can hardly see the tents as you walk to the main area – a large marquee style tent. The view was across an unusually wide stretch of the Luangwa and we could see the hills past Nkwali – some 60 kms away! The large “morris” chairs under the marquee were a perfect place to sit and chill for the siesta period although they competed with the veranda from your tent where you could watch game wandering down to drink at the waterhole. Our tent, tucked away in bird filled bushes, looked over this waterhole. Cleverly Jo had turned the tent sideways and cut the side so it was rolled up during the day (zipped tightly closed at night!). From our bed we watched a family of elephants most afternoons feeding on the winterthorn pods right next to our tent. The tents are not the huge ones many safari outfits are going for now but the old style. But with the veranda, a dressing room and a big open air bathroom you feel like you have a suite!! The shower is positioned with a view of the waterhole – the elephant family certainly saw me up close but didn’t seem to mind.

Like all the Pope camps, there is a sense of simplicity, and as another guest said “all you need and nothing you don’t”. There is no unnecessary clutter – it gives an old fashioned safari feel – one where the focus is on the experience of the stay and not the décor of the camp. It suited us perfectly.

The game viewing was exceptional. The area around Tena is very different from Nkwali. We mostly stayed within 15 km from camp but we did not need to go further. Everything was there. Especially leopard – we seemed to find them almost daily. We also found a herd of eland which is rare for the Luangwa. Being September, the carmines were arriving and choosing their nesting sites. They floated around the banks of the river in chattering clouds. It was reasonably hot so we tended to return to camp around 1030 in the morning for a brunch except on the last day when we drove out to the “salt pans” with a picnic. This was a wonderful day covering different terrain and habitats.

For further information Ask Robin Pope Safaris